a mi no me importa nada, pa' mi la vida es un sueño

Well, what a weekend! I did shoot many of the promised Oaxaca photos, which means I am now editing. The more I get into photo editing, the slower the process becomes because I am nit-picky-er. Then Tony and I argue about the contrast levels in miso soup. It's really healthy.

We went to many parties this weekend, and even though I was on the verge of declaring tonight's party the most heartwarming, the truth is that they all were, just in different ways.

On Friday, we were invited to a Quinceañera that was thrown by the folks who own our apartments. We dressed up, and I was feeling pretty emotional anyway, so I got all teary-eyed and rueful watching the parents presenting their daughter proudly. It was also kind of funny watching the birthday girl, Luz Maria, dance around to the Michael Jackson songs that she replaced all the Quinceañera standards with: she was self-assured, but something about the way she looked on that dance floor, and especially in the big, poufy "woman" dress struck me as not-a-day-over-fourteen. Anyway, we were clearly the rowdy faction of not-high-schoolers at that party, so we danced around for a while and drank the party beverage of choice (brandy--like old men, yes).

On Saturday, we went to some of the Virgen de Guadalupe festivities (December 12 is Her big day). The best part was that at this one park they had lots of little boys dressed like Juan Diego--painted mustache and all. There were "scenes" set up so that you could pose your tiny Juan Diego and little indigenous girl in some sort of idyllic setting involving burros. We also went to see the big nativity scene in the zocalo, which was kind of weird, and involved scenes of Egypt and also Mexico that didn't entirely make sense:

Mexico in the nativity (you can tell by the cactus--and the sheep??!)

This isn't really relevant, but sort of. Some of the Oaxacans we've met work for the city government, which is kind of interesting, and they will say things like "Oaxaca has ruled Mexico for longer than any other state thanks to Porfirio Diaz and Benito Juarez". This is pretty funny because, well, no one really brags about Porfirio Diaz.

Anyway.

After this, we rested up for the big event of the weekend, which was a Vela Istmeña, a party thrown by folks originally from the Isthmus. We were told that there was a strict dress code of traditional Isthmus dress.

watching the traditional dances

Naturally, we took very many photos of each other in these outfits, and I could basically wear the thing every day, because there is really nothing I enjoy more than a big, poufy skirt. The party was a lot of fun, the families seemed kind of clannish but the family we were sitting with was very welcoming. They fed us lots of delicious Isthmus food and warm punch (the party was outside and it was really cold), and we partied til about 3 (we were some of the first to leave! these things go all night). The family aspect of this one, especially being dressed and prepared for the party by a really sweet family, was the best part of this party. But watching everyone in their amazing outfits and trying to get all the traditions just right was fun, too.

Then, today, we went to the last party of the weekend, at the migrant house. This party was complete with a bonfire for roasting marshmallows and an awesome band. There were some awesome dancers, and everyone there was really warm and welcoming. We all made something to take, and I made this cake, which tastes better than this photo probably makes it look (stupid flash).

Also, before the party today, Tony and I managed to go up to San Agustin Etla for an art bazaar. When we got there, it was basically just the Etla expat crowd out in full force, and it was their art (and their American prices, in many instances). Everyone is really friendly, and in truth the house and much of the art were very beautiful. On the other hand, it stirs these weird feelings in me--these folks can come here and make their art and sell it at these prices to each other, basically, while the Oaxacan artisans were nowhere to be seen. I guess I just wonder what kind of a contribution that really is. I was also really prone to negative feelings at that point, anyway, but the trip back down from Etla and baking and the COMI party helped a lot.

We're powering through to Christmas break now. We have a heavy week of community visits and a trip to the Sierra Juarez ahead of us, but I think those will all be pleasant. There's Kirtan and the beginning of las Posadas (which is also the beginning of my favorite, the Novena al Niño Jesus, a Colombian tradition that is sort of like las Posadas) this week, too, so probably some more events are in order.

Oh--also because I'm kind of nostalgic and life is silly, I know these videos have been all over the internet but I think this little kid is adorable and he reminds me, mostly in his silliness, of my nephew Anthony (I am missing all my little nephews and niece very much): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ErMWX--UJZ4

Yes, friends, warm happy things: hugs to all of you!